Eat poor that day, eat rich the rest of the year. Rice for riches and peas for peace. So goes the saying about Hoppin’ John, the classic Low Country dish of rice and peas that’s a New Year’s day tradition in the South. Consuming a plateful is thought to guarantee a prosperous year filled with good fortune. The peas symbolize coins and the greens served on the side—usually collards—recall good old dollar bills. Add cornbread and you’ve got gold. Culinary gold, anyway. Join me in embracing this bit of Southern lore today on January 1st. C'mon, get lucky. The origins of the name Hoppin’ John seem a little muddled, but it’s probably taken from a corruption of 'pois pigeons', the Creole term for black-eyed peas. This simple dish of peas and rice cooked with onion and pork has its roots in the pilaus of the African diaspora, and may have evolved from rice and bean mixtures that were the subsistence of slaves en route to the Americas. It has been traced to similar foods in West Africa, in particular the Senegalese dish known as thiebou niebe. There’s really no one way to make Hoppin' John. Some cook the peas and rice together, some do it separately. Some flavor the dish with a ham hock, others with bacon or fatback. One complaint that is frequently lodged against Hoppin' John is that it's bland. And I supposed it would be if you just heated up canned peas with some flavorless Uncle Ben's. But if you're layering wonderful smoked pork products (vegetarians, use kombu and dried shiitakes), heirloom peas and fresh vegetables, you're off to a good start. Buttery rice and piquant hot sauce add further dimension. For me, what really makes this dish, is the gravy. A cup of cooked peas is blended with a little butter and some of the peas' cooking liquid—the "pot likker"—until it's velvety smooth. This is brightened with cider vinegar and lots of black pepper. I could slurp it down by the spoonful. Make a batch and invite some friends over to ring in 2025. Hoppin' John is not fancy, but it's soothing and restorative. (Good for a hangover.) Round out the meal with collard and cornbread, if you like. If, as Seneca said thousands of years ago, "Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity," we must always be at the ready. Your lucky day could be right around the corner, or it could be right here, right now. Fingers crossed. Hoppin' John Serves 6 Ingredients 1 pound smoked ham hock 2 ounces bacon (about 3 slices) 1 large sweet onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, smashed 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 celery ribs, chopped 2 tomatoes, chopped (canned is fine) 1 large sweet apple, chopped 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon thyme 7 black peppercorns 1 cup black-eyed peas 1 1/2 cups medium dice onions 1 cup medium dice carrots 1 1/2 cups medium dice celery 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon thyme 1 jalapeño, sliced 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, or to taste 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne 1 cup Anson Mills Carolina Gold Rice (or substitute best quality long-grain white rice) 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed Sliced chives or scallions, for garnish Hot sauce, such as Crystal or Tabascos Procedure 1. Place first 11 ingredients (through peppercorns) in a stockpot with 10 cups cold water and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer gently for 4 hours. Cool, then strain out and discard solids. 2. Drain the peas and add to the stock, along with all of the remaining ingredients through the jalapeño. Cook the peas, partially covered, over low heat until they are soft, about 60-90 minutes. Season to taste with coarse sea salt. (The peas can be cooked ahead and refrigerated in their liquid for up to 3 days. Reheat, covered, over low heat before proceeding.) Drain the peas, reserving their cooking liquid. Keep warm, covered, over very low heat, while you make the gravy and rice. 3. To make the gravy, measure out 1 cup peas and 2 cups cooking liquid and combine in a blender with the butter. Blend on high until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add cider vinegar. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. (Gravy can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept in a covered container in the refrigerator. Reheat, covered, over the lowest possible heat, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching.) 4. Preheat the oven to 300ºF. Bring 4 cups water, 1 teaspoon salt and the cayenne pepper to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, add the rice, stir once, and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is al dente, about 15 minutes. Drain the rice in a sieve and rinse under cold water. 5. Spread the rice out on a rimmed baking sheet. Dry the rice in the oven, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Scatter the butter evenly over the rice and continue to dry, stirring every few minutes, for about 5 minutes longer. All excess moisture should have evaporated and the grains should be dry and separate. 6. To complete, use a slotted spoon to transfer the peas to a large serving bowl (should not be soupy). Add the rice and gently toss the rice and peas together. Drizzle gravy over the top, sprinkle with chives or scallions, and serve. Pass additional gravy and hot sauce on the side. #trustedprairian #happynewyear2025 #chefcheryl #whatscookingwednesday
Posted by Chef Cheryl at 2025-01-01 15:32:21 UTC